Tuesday, 1 September 2015

Update from the Skipper

Okay I have some time now that we are spending an extra day in Astoria so I’ll do my bit and add to this as well with some more technical stuff for everyone’s information.  I figure that learning from others experiences and oversights is an excellent way to increase one’s knowledge.  I didn’t add mistakes only because when I thought I made a mistake a while back I really hadn’t  K

I left off my last contribution talking about the water maker.  It has been working pretty well but there is a couple of small leak issues I need to cure but they are nothing serious and just drip. The vacuum gauge failed after a few hours but with the low pressure alarm and shut-off working well I’m not sure I’m going to replace it even though the manufacturer will send me a replacement free of charge.  The purpose of the vacuum gauge is to give an indication the pre filters are becoming restricted and reducing raw water flow to the high pressure (HP) pump. Something you DO NOT want to do if you expect the very expensive HP pump to last.  We are finding a visual inspection is more than adequate to determine the pre-filters condition.  I located the pre-filters where it is very easy to inspect and change them.  Something we are doing far more frequently than we ever expected.  In BC waters I could barely get 200 gals made between filter changes.  There is a very large algae bloom happening out there with all the warm water in the “Pacific Bubble”.  Tuna fishermen are reporting areas that are TEN degrees C above normal off the north end of Vancouver Island.  That is scary.  However, the algae seems far less now we are off the Washington/Oregon coast.  We’ll see what further down brings.
All in all I am very happy I took the DIY route with the watermaker.  The features we built in prevented a component failure from shutting our water making down and I am able to deal with any problem relatively easy. Unless I don’t have the parts.  See below.  Without it this trip would not been nearly as fun.  Water is in an unprecedented short supply everywhere we go and is only going to get worse.  Forget washing your boat down unless you make your own water. Forget having a shower whenever you want.  Not here.

Single Sideband Nets: 

 I got the SSB working okay but haven’t been using it as of late.  Because of the very stable and predominant High Pressure System off our coast VHF weather reports and forecasts have been more than adequate irrespective that they have been so wrong.  I joined onto the Northwest net that meets at 0800 daily at 3 megs.  What I found was, for me, it was more trouble than it was worth.  To be able to transmit the batteries have to be fully charged.  For this to happen I’d have to get up an hour ahead to start the engine to charge the batteries.  3 megs at 8 am sucks. Especially with the atmospherics we were having.  I found I could barely hear anything and had to rely on a relay.  The only thing I heard was a lot of noise, people reporting how many eagles they saw and what a lovely time they were having.  Sorry, not interested.   I think the VHF nets down south will be something I’ll be more interested in. Where is happy hour, where we eating, where’s the pot luck, who’s going to Costco or Mega etc. etc. In the mean time I seem to be getting good 3G with my  AT&T sim card in my Iphone/Ipad. I get all the weather and bar info I need to do my planning and updating along the way.  Maybe, again, a function of my aviation background.

Cell Phone Coverage:

While I’m on communications, a lesson I learned.  On the US coast Verizon has far better coverage than AT&T or so ALL of the US commercial Fishermen and Yachts people we’ve met say. NO one likes AT&T. Sort of like me and Telus. This is totally contrary to the info I gleaned prior to leaving.  Fortunately I only paid for one month of AT&T and will get a Verizon Sim card next.
I had some major frustration getting my new SIM card up and running.  Mostly because I’m technically inept with this stuff.  My Canadian provider only gave me ½ the instructions to unlock my Iphone.  Then I mucked up the settings on my notebook where I deactivated the wireless capability.  I have no idea how that happened.  It turned out I had to sync, backup and restore my Iphone to unlock it.  I was told only to sync it.  Fortunately a very nice computer repair guy here in Astoria fixed it in 2 minutes and Voila, I have a phone number and 3G.

Sirius Satellite Radio:

 I purchased a Sirius unit at a clear out price from London Drugs a year ago. If you purchase in Canada you have no choice but activate in Canada so be aware.  We are very happy to have it.  We get CBC and great music wherever we are.  I hard wired my unit in with a 5 volt regulator.  What I have to do is put a switch on it.  It is on 24/7 and is now cutting out more often than we would like.  Just did it again L  Fixed!  The regulator is obviously not designed to be on 24/7.  I’d leave the auto plug on next time.  Of course I had to use the wire and cut the plug off didn’t I.

Head:

We were sitting in Hot Spring Cove when I opened the cockpit locker and smelt sewage. Yuk!!  Closer inspection revealed sewage on top of the holding tank.  My mind said just close the lid. This isn’t happening. So I did and went kayaking.  When we got back reality hit and I knew I had to deal with it NOW.  This is one good reason why you do not want your holding tank inside your living space if you can possibly avoid it. Okay, empty the locker, get the things that got sewage on them on deck and cleaned off. Uncover the Vac u Flush unit which sits on top of the holding tank.  Next, where is it coming from?  Hmmm, guess I have to flush the toilet to find out.  Yikes!  STOP!!!!  Not good!  It’s the vacuum pump bellows.  Wouldn’t you know it.  The only spare part I don’t have.  Stupid because it is the only part that moves and the most likely to fail.  I consulted with the Vac u Flush people before I left and no one said have a spare bellows and I didn’t think of it either.  Fortunately, my system has the same pump to empty the holding tank so disassemble both pumps and put the bellows from the discharge pump into the toilet pump  At least we have a working toilet and don’t have to contemplate using the “bucket”   Phheeeewww! 
A phone call to Tofino gets a new bellows on its way from Vancouver and will be there in a couple of days, we hope.  Otherwise we have to hang around Tofino until Tuesday which will seriously cut into our time in the Broken Islands.  We have to be in Victoria by Thursday for an appointment.  It arrived on time and on we went to the Broken Islands.

Leaks:

I have a persistent leak from somewhere aft of the engine.  It is dumbfounding me.  By the process of elimination and isolation, the only place I can figure it could possibly be is the Rudder shaft. I’ve added packing to the rudder shaft stuffing box and tightened it down. No difference.   I see some kind of repair on the rudder shaft housing that looks less than substantial but I have not been able to get eyes on where it’s coming from.  It is quite possibly coming from two places, or more.  I will persevere. I will find it! Somehow.

Auto Pilot:

Before I left I knew the electric linear drive on my auto pilot was not strong enough and tired. This is the thing that turns the rudder on command of the auto pilot computer.  Because there are many choices to make and only so many $$$ I put this one off until later and purchased a new battery charger/inverter instead.  Wrong move considering I have been rarely tying up with shore power.  Dumb move actually.
On our 28 hour transit from Gwaii Haanas to Sea Otter Cove on Vancouver Island we had swells that tried to broach us to starboard and as we were on starboard tack the wind was trying to round us up to starboard.  Both conditions were too much for the ram and the autopilot was getting “overpowered” every 30 minutes or so.  This was not cool as this was Faye’s first real offshore experience, at night with no moon in quartering seas and winds gusting 25 kts.  Trooper that she is she persevered and stood her watch.  I figured she would last an hour at best.  Nope, did the whole 3 hours hand steering when required with reference to the windex and digital compass.  Not an easy task in the best conditions. The digital compass is just a numerical readout. No compass rose for context.  Oh yeah, did I mention our wind direction instruments had  failed .  Masthead unit failure. L
When we got to Tofino I ordered the new ram that would have more than adequate power to steer the boat in the most adverse conditions.  It was waiting for me in Port Angeles and it took longer to get at the old one than it did to change it out.  It fit right into the existing mount. Took 15 minutes.

Navigation:

Of the eight things we have that have made this trip amazing so far, I have to say electronic charting has been one of the top three. Those would be Enclosure, Auto pilot, kayaks, 40 pounds of propane, watermaker, refrigeration, radar and electronic charting.  Top three being number one, enclosure, number 2, autopilot and number three, Electronic charting.  There are three independent, redundant systems onboard.  The Garmin GPSMap 10”chartplotter,  a Toshiba Toughbook with MaxSea and an Ipad with Navionics.  The Garmin with radar overlay made leaving Neah Bay and Westport at night and 1/8 mile in fog easy and worry free.  Route building doesn’t work as well as it should so its waypoint to waypoint.  Being a triple A anal navigator the radar backup or secondary nav system makes reduced visibility passages simple.  But then again, my aviation background helps bigtime. I sit on the left for hours and hours and monitor systems.  Crap!!!  I thought I retired.

Wind Instruments:

The, as I’ve found out, to no real surprise,  B&G masthead unit which transmits wind direction and wind speed to the indicator instruments is ancient.  It came with the boat and as soon as we left Vancouver, naturally, it started acting up.  The B&G repair guy sent me a field repair kit but it was the wrong parts.  He has told me I’m SOL and have to replace it.  Crap, another 1.1 boat units. ($1.100 US) but if I want the auto pilot to steer to wind direction I gotta cough up.

Enclosure Leaks:

I had a full enclosure made by North Sails before I left.  One of the things I explained to them was it cannot leak in the two corners we sit most often.  Guess where the only places it leaks are.  I’m a little more than pissed but have little recourse now.  I’m hoping I can get it fixed down the road and North Sails will help me out.  Other than that, the enclosure is, by far, the best addition I made to the boat.  We have not put on wet gear once. Not once!  We sit in T shirts and shorts while others without go by bundled up like its winter.

Health Insurance:

I have recently figured out why Canadians aren’t travelling after retirement.  Health Insurance costs. Since I’m going long term I am in a completely different category.  I had to purchase sort of an “ex pat” policy since I’m gone for more than 188 days,  Dolphin Insurance highly recommended RSA in Montreal.  They were great and very helpful.  However, for me, because I have exercise induced asthma and used an inhaler during my Ironman life the cost doubled.  I’m paying $500 per month.  Until I get to Mexico. Fortunately I have family in Mexico and my nephew is going to adopt me and put me on their healthcare plan.  Actually, because I’m going to be there for a while and because of the boat import rules I can be added onto their healthcare policy at a great saving.
One thing I learned just in time is that you MUST have your insurance in place BEFORE departing Canada.  You cannot do this from abroad.

Spare parts and tools to consider:

Any ferrule fittings on water maker lines or fuel lines.  They cannot be reused and not leak.

A set of short box end/open end wrenches to get into tight spaces.  I am so glad I have them.

Any moving part in your toilet and pump-out system.

Monday, 31 August 2015

Juan de Fuca Straight and Beyond

We continued our journey down the west coast of Vancouver Island making our way from Tofino to the Broken Islands, which is a very popular kayaking destination.  We saw a few boats and kayakers but not as many as anticipated.  The kayaking in this area is fabulous offering many islets and coves to explore, sea urchins and starfish, rich bird life, seas and sea lions, along with the biggest mussels we have ever seen! (see picture below).  The kayaking on this trip has definitely been one of the highlights for us. 

We continued to experience more sightings of whales.  The morning we left the Broken Island we saw two pods of humpbacks and later in the day a pod of killer whales.  This sure helps to break up long stretches of sailing (or motoring.as the case may be).  Our weather continued  to be really nice with hit and miss winds.  

The night before we reached Victoria we anchored and laughed when Dennis said "what is that noise?" and we realized it was a motor bike on a near by road.  We have definitely been away for a while!  As we approached the Victoria Harbour we recognized that we were ending the phase of our journey through the remote part of the BC coast.  Over the past 2.5 months we have been blessed with beautiful scenery, extraordinary wild life and  wonderful experiences.

Victoria was fun!  We tied up in front of the Empress Hotel and had front row seats to their Dragon Boat Festival and all the local sights.  I stayed on in Victoria while Dennis took the boat over to Port Angeles to do some work on the boat.  My pals Maureen, Marilyn, Sandra and Susanne came over for the weekend and I also had great visits with Brian, Dawn and Maxine.  I have such good friends!

I rejoined Dennis in Port Angeles and we headed off to Neah Bay to position for the trip around Cape Flattery.  The weather cooperated and we headed off soon after.  Alot of people that head down to San Francisco go straight through given there aren't alot of places to stop along the way and the stops that are there present challenging entrances given they have sand bars to cross. These are created when the water of the river meets up with the waves of the ocean.  You have to carefully time your crossing to minimize the effects of the tide, current and waves.  Dennis and I decided to harbour hop down the coast, as we wanted to visit some of the places and given there are just two of us on the boat going straight through would be exhausting.  Given Dennis experience with navigation we were confident we could manage the bars and too date this has been the case;  

We set off at 3:30 am in the dark from Neah Bay in order to meet the crossing at Gray's Harbour.   The waters around Cape Flattery were like a washing machine and that combined with the dark left me feeling green! After a 20 hour sail we arrived and crossed the bar with no problem. Gray's Harbout along with each of the stops along the coast are big recreational and commercial fishing areas.   Everyone is very generous in sharing their local knowledge about the crossings etc. which have been really helpful.  I have a new appreciation for the fishing industry and lifestyle and how many people are fishing crazy!

We continued our trip venturing from  Gray's Harbour, Washington to Astoria, Oregon in the Columbia River. The bar entering the Columbia River can be very treacherous so we gave ourselves lots of time to ensure we arrived at the right time.  We set out at 8:45 p,m in pea soup fog, sailing through the night to arrive at 8:30 a.m. This was our first experience on the trip sailing in fog and given the cockpit enclosure, chart plotter, radar and auto-pilot it really was pretty easy to manage.  I am getting onto the night sailing and am feeling pretty comfortable with it.  Between Dennis planning and being blessed by the weather gods we had no problem getting across the bar.  (I hope the video below works so you can see the evidence).  Our greatest challenge was navigating through the hundreds of recreational fishing boats, as salmon season was underway

We were forewarned by commercial fishermen that a bad storm was approaching so we planned to spend the time in Astoria waiting for it to pass.  What a storm!  The wind was a constant 50 kts. with gusts to 70 kts!  These were the strongest winds that I have ever experienced.  Despite being securely tied up it was pretty rocky rolly and noisy!  I tried to capture some pictures but they really don't show the extent of it. The extra time in Astoria has allowed up to enjoy the historic part of the city, their local bistros and craft beer, take in their farmers market and to meet some nice people. The people have been very friendly and helpful!

We were intending to head out today to Newport but I had to stay put to complete a proposal for potential work on my return.  We are trying hard to pretend I am not going home but reality is starting to knock at our door.  We will make every moment count!  

Broken Islands
Broken Islands, Cormorant 

Looking lovely

World's largest mussels!  Not Dennis's





Sheeringham Point, Juan de Fuca Strait

Whale Sightings 

Killer Whales, Juan de Fuca 


A pair of grays at the entrance to Neah Bay


Victoria 

Returning to civilization!
|Friends Sandra and Susanne


Columbia River Bar
Crossing the Bar

Fishing Boats everywhere!


Sea lions on every buoy
Bridge between Washington and Oregon States, 6.6 km.


Astoria Trolley

The Storm



On tilt!















 

Saturday, 8 August 2015

West Coast of Vancouver Island


We have continued to have extraordinary weather until today, when we woke to pouring rain while docked at Tofino -  but we won't complain, as we have been blessed by the weather gods!  Since reaching Vancouver Island on July 25/15 we have been bumping our way along the coast, checking out a variety of marine parks, sports fishing haunts, natural hot springs and enjoying some incredible kayaking.  We have had some fabulous sailing, great winds that are going in the right direction!  We topped out at 11.9 kts on the foresail a few days ago, that was exciting!  The boat is performing well, despite a few glitches, a small tear in UV cover of the foresail, head problems and a water leak that Dennis has spent hours on trying to find the source still no luck.  Thank god Dennis is so capable at fixing things. and no doubt with his obsessive personality he will find the source of the leak!  A note to those of you with water makers, we are having to replace the pre-filters every 200 - 250 gallons, given the algae bloom  on the west coast.  Glad we brought lots.

Despite our comment in the last post about not seeing as much sea life as anticipated we are seeing quite alot.  We have now seen 5 types of whales, killer, gray, minke, fin and humpbacks; seals and sea lions, sea otters, bear, racoon, deer, tons of eagles and numerous sea birds.  We were accompanied by an albatross flying with us much of the trip from Gwaii Haanas to Vancouver Island.  I named him Abby. Things you will do when you are sailing long distances (:-)

Our fishing luck continues, with the purchase of a fresh tuna from a commercial fisherman at Winter Harbour.  They had 6000 pounds of tuna on board and we out until they caught 15,000!

We are both enjoying being in more populated areas, chatting with other boaters, dinners out, access to phone, email, grocery stores and laundry, things that become real treats when you don't have ready access to them.   We are headed to Victoria, looking forward to kayaking in the Broken Islands on route.  I am going to spend a few days with friends in Victoria while Dennis heads to Port Angeles to do some work on the boat.  Our plans are to head off down the US coast around the 3rd week of August.

Hoping you are all have a great summer!

10 pound fresh tuna


Bunsbies "Green Head" sea stack
Bunsbie Islands
Bunsbie Islands

Sea otter - Bunsbie Islands
Hot Springs Cove
Hot Springs Cove









Provisioning - thanks Lot!
Tastes good too - thanks Judy!
Head repair - yuk!!

Sail repair













Dinner out - Tofino
Tofino fog


Friday, 7 August 2015

Haida Gwaii/Gwaii Haanas National Park


We're back on line after being out of telephone or email access for a month.  We have covered alot of area during this time.  We made our crossing to Haida Gwaii on July 12 after a false start when the winds (30+ kts) in Loredo Sound caused us to delay a day. The trip across took 15 hours, winds varied and we sailed about 40 of the 80 miles distance. The weather gods continued to smile on us and we only had a couple days of rain during our stay which is very unusual.

We focused our time while in Haida Gwaii on the south island and the Gwaii Haanas National Park. Twenty years ago it was made a national park with joint governance between the Haida People and the Federal Government.  Many of you will remember the logging protests on Moresby Island which led up to this. For some history and information check out http://www.pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/bc/gwaiihaanas/natcul.aspx.

We spent 12 days touring around the islands.  The highlights for us were kayaking the Dolomite/Burnaby Narrows at low tide to see all of the shell fish, star fish etc;and visiting 4 of the historic Haida Villages which hold significant spiritual value for the Haida people.  We learning more about the Haida history and could feel the pride of the Haida watchman guides.  The Haida believe in letting things return to nature so the totems and longhouses have not been preserved and so are in various stages of decay.  We have included some photos below that we hope provide you with a sense of the beauty of the area

For those of you that are considering a trip to Gwaii Haanas here are some reflections from our trip.
  • Only 100 people are allowed in the park a day, including boats, tours & kayakers.  As a result we saw very few people.  It would be a great place to buddy boat.
  • Our weather as mentioned was nice.   Saying that we love the cockpit enclosure which has allowed us to sail in shorts and to spend all of our time outside rather than down below.
  • This summer has been very dry and if we didn't have a water maker we would have struggled as there was no where to access water.
  • Unless you have better fortune that us, don't plan on relying on fresh fish and seafood that you catch.  We were happy to have all the things in our freezer.
  • We had anticipated seeing more sea life that we did.  Others had the same experience which many are attributing to the rising sea temperatures.  
  • Being further north the days were notably longer, by approximately 2 hours, which was great.
We left Gwaii Haanas on July 25/15 and began our 130 mile journey to the north end of Vancouver Island. It took us 27 hours to arrive in Sea Otter Cove.  We sailed more than half of the trip with following seas and 3-4 meter waves.  The wind was on the back quarter so I felt abit green but not bad and Dennis was fine.  The moon was covered with clouds so it was VERY dark and initially disorienting.  But we got onto it.  This was my first over night crossing on the open ocean, sailing solo shifts, so I feel really pleased to have accomplished this.

Land Ho!  
Arrival Celebration



Dolomite/Burnaby Narrows at low tide









SGang Gwaay Memorial Poles
SGang Gwaay Memorial Pole



Skedans, Longhouse corner poles


Skedans Village Site
Skedans, Poles that Emily Carr painted


Tanu Longhouse
Windy Bay, huge old growth Sitca Spruce
Windy  Bay

Windy Bay Totem - 20 year park anniversary

Landslides are very prevalent

 
More attempts at crabbing/prawning
Dennis ready for the bears and the mosquitoes!

Tons of jelly fish

Dinner we shared at Rose Harbour


Farewell to Haida Gwaii


Sunset on our 27 hour journey